Sanding Disc Storage Tutorial

I have an underlying desire to keep things organized. My wife will laugh at this comment because she knows I also have a desire make little piles of my junk all around the house (mostly shoved in corners) but it’s all a method of organization. I put something somewhere and I know where to find it when I need it. It’s another reason why I continue to add to my shop so it can be easier to find what I need when I’m concentrating on a project. Have you seen my tool wall? It doesn’t get much easier to find a tool when its physically hanging on the wall in front of my face. Floor space is also at a minimum, so just like living in an urban sprawl, sometimes the only place to expand is up. So this week I added some shop organization for my random orbital sander discs. It won’t solve my bad habit of throwing all my spent discs on the floor mid-project, but it helps me from having to dig through my piles of stuff when I need the next grit.

I’m definitely not the first person to make one of these. I know Brad from Fix This Build That made one a few years ago complete with a French Cleat Hanger. I didn’t do that, it sounds like a lot of work for someone with a “Lazy Guy” moniker. But mine also only took me 30 minutes to make, not to mention Brad’s is only 15 ½” tall while mine is more than double that if you know what I’m saying… I’m saying I have more sanding discs sitting around my shop. Plus, this build fits perfectly next to my 32” Wall Control Metal Pegboards (*affiliate link). Organization next to organization? Bliss. This is an extremely easy build, I used a total of four tools (plus a Kreg Jig) and a scrap piece of ¾” plywood and some leftover underlayment. Plus, I got a billion questions about how I cut dados with my miter saw when I posted this on Instagram, so you get a special quick tip video! On to the build!

Tools Used

(affiliate links)

Sliding Miter Saw (with depth stop): RIDGID Dual Bevel Sliding Miter Saw
Table Saw: RIDGID 10” Table Saw
Brad Gun: Ryobi One+ Airstrike Brad Gun
Pocket Hole Jig: Kreg K5 Master Pocket Hole Jig
Drill/Driver: Ryobi One+ Drill/Driver Combo Kit

Supplies/Material Used

2’x4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Scrap Underlayment
Wood Glue
1-1/4” pocket screws

Step 1

As mentioned above, I made my storage unit 32” long, feel free to expand if you have a lot of sanding pads or just want to show off how many cubbies you can make. Cut your quarter panel of ¾” plywood down to 32”. Rip down two pieces to 6”x 32” and one to 7.25” x 32”. If you’ve got a table saw… perfect.

If you don’t have a table saw you can easily rip cut with a circular saw and a guide like the Kreg Rip Cut (*affiliate link) or Accu-Cut (*affiliate link) or you can make your own saw guide. You do you.

Step 2

Now for the fun part, I casually mentioned on Instagram I was using my sliding miter saw to cut dados and got a million questions how that was possible. Easy… if you have a sliding miter saw with a depth stop (sorry normal miter saws) it’s as simple as spinning a knob on the side of your power tool to adjust the depth. I have two sliding miter saws and one has the depth stop feature, the other one doesn’t. If you don’t, you can just as easily cut your dados on a table saw or with a router.

I just prefer my sliding miter method when the material works because I find there is less room for error and a higher chance my cutting will be square thanks to the fence. Check out the quick video below and I’ll show you what I mean:

I pre-marked both 6” x 32” side panels with 4” increments to give me enough room to include multiple cubbies for varying grits of sanding discs. I then cut my dado grooves wide enough to fit shelves made out of underlayment (thin plywood often used as paneling or drawer bottoms) It’s usually about an 1/8” thick.

It’s important that your dados are cut at the same increments on both panels because your shelves will need to line up. You don’t want wonky shelves. You’re better than that.

Step 3

With the dados cut on both panels I added a few pairs of ¾” depth pocket holes with my Kreg K5 Master Jig that will attach to the 7.25” x 32” back panel.

I already know I’ll get complaints about why I didn’t hide the pocket holes on the back out of sight… valid question, my 6” x 32” panels were already pre-cut and leftover from another project so I didn’t adjust my measurements to accommodate the hidden pocket holes. Plus with shop furniture I don’t care if I can see a pocket hole on the inside of my cubbies. They are hidden by the sanding discs. Pffttt…

Attach both panels with wood glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws and you’re almost done.

Step 4

Depending on the depth of your dado cuts, your shelves for each level should be close to 6”x 6” (give or take a 1/16th) . You need seven. Not six. Not five. Don’t be a rebel. Follow my plans or suffer the consequences (of being short a shelf).

I find it easiest to stack my underlayment and cut a few pieces at a time so they are all equally sized. Once you’ve cut them all, slide them into the slots. You want them a little tight so they don’t easily slide out, but not so tight that they splay your side panels like your legs in a bad roller skating accident.

Step 5

Final step (other than attaching it onto the wall and admiring it) is to add the top and bottom panels. Assuming you “mathed” correctly the top and bottom panels of underlayment will need to be 6.75″ x 7.25″.

Cut them evenly and attach with wood glue and brad nails. If it goes a little wonky you can always clean up any overhang with a router and a flush trim bit. But this is shop furniture, no one will judge you…other than everyone that sees your shoddy work…

Hang It Up! Fill It Up!

The benefit of having wood panels on my walls means I can just screw everything straight to it. I just pre-drilled and then attached directly to my shop walls. Simple as that.

It’s secure and it’s not going anywhere. If you want to get fancy you can check out Brad’s French Cleat method or just use a router and a key-hole bit.